First tracks on the Rond

Tues 22nd: Ryan, Petter, Jim and I were at the Midi for 7:45. No reservations today... Hmmm. Three bins worth of people were there waiting, ready for the scrum. Ryan, Petter and I waited by the entrance to see what happened. Eventually a woman came over and opened the queue. After ten tense seconds of pushing and shoving Ryan, Petter and I made it into the queue, right at the front. Jim had decided to skip the queue and join some others later.

Ryan and Petter getting ready by the Cosmiques arête

We got up and out quickly despite Petter leaving his poles at the top of the arête... the fool. Followed in a few tracks to the Simond hut to see a few people scoping out the Cosmiques couloir. No one had gone into the Rond. A snowboarder, Flo, was waiting for us to put a track in. I was ready so headed in first, a bit nervous. There was a layer of champagne powder on top of the previous layer. I traversed across to the left shoulder on a dusting of snow on top of glacier ice. Sluff poured off way down the face. It was only slightly more forgiving than last time.

The entrance to the Rond - untouched

After a tense turn the snow got better and I was away. Long, linked turns the entire way down with sluff everywhere. I chose to ski straight down the centre of the glacier, forgoing the deepest snow on the right in favour of the direct line. Instead I just looked for the runnels of snow and it was fantastic. Soft, deep and steep. A complete contrast to the last time we skied it. Petter came down the left and Ryan in the deep snow on the right.

Happy days

Ryan with the Cunninghams couloir backdrop

After a quick rappel we were into the exit couloir. Flo had jumped past us through a narrow, rocky gully that was far too narrow to sideslip on skis. The fantastic snow continued until the last 100m where there was the remnants of a slide. Even then it was good. After jumping the bergschrund we were down and began the long traverse out.

Ryan, Petter and the Midi lined up

Petter enjoying the powder 

Freshies all the way down

Opening the turns up in the exit couloir

Making our way down to Bossons glacier

It was slow and hard work. As the heaviest I was breaking through every step and there were times on the bootpack I was up to my waist in heavy snow. Eventually after a few scrambles, some incredible scenery and some crusty snow we were back at the mid-station where we bumped into Flo again. After a quick rest Ryan and Petter headed off for a second lap but tired, I headed down.

The traverse back to mid-station

Jaw dropping views

The north face up close

In the evening Liam, Nick, Sonny and Gibbs came round for some cards and a lot of beer and wine. After a few hours we headed out for a fun evening at Terrasse; the last Tequila Tuesday of the season. Another fantastic day.

Col du Tour Noir

Weds 16th: We called off our plan to go for Mont Blanc the night before. A few of us were unsure we were 100% ready. Personally I was worried about either the 1200/1800m vertical tour at altitude having not done anything of that length before. Instead Tom Tom, Robyn and I did the Col du Tour Noir. For me it was a nice way to just get some more training in. It's only 750m vertical but its all training. When we got up the top of the Grand Montets the wind was relentless. Stronger than when we did the Midi in high winds earlier in the season. Must have been well over 150km/h (though that was on the Col).

Tommo on the thick layer of crust

Argentiere basin stunning as always

As soon as we were in the basin the wind relented. The ski down and transition was good. The wind came in gusts over the bottom of the glacier and it we saw a few people get knocked over by it. On the way up I powered off as I knew it'd take me longer; it was icy and unlike the others I had no couteau (ski crampons). The first steep skin was a balancing act attempting not to slip back down. It was the same for two of the steep sections later.

Far left of picture - our route up

TT and Robyn getting ready to skin

The rest of the skin was pretty nice until were 100m vertical from the top. The wind suddenly came in stronger than I've ever experienced before. EVER. It funnelled down over the col and was enough to knock anyone who wasn't bracing straight over (and a lot of people came cropper anyway). TT and Robyn had already seen over the Col so whilst they headed for cover I headed up the last section, fighting the wind. As I reached the top the wind died completely. Perfect. Few photos and we headed back down.

Me on the Col

Looking over the Col

Perfect views of Switzerland

The way back down was heavy crust for the first 500m vertical then corn the rest of the way. We skipped the Pierre a Ric as the coverage in places is non existent. Really happy with the day. I powered up (whilst fighting against the lack of crampons) and felt like I had a lot more left. Looking forward to some longer tours and hopefully the big MB.

Midi, powder, views, beer and BBQs. Epic.

Sun 20th: We knew it snowed overnight but that there wasn't too much fresh. Even so Ryan, Petter, Tom Tom, Robyn and I got up early doors for the Midi. We hadn't bargained on Easter Sunday... They were already handing out bin 33 (started ~15). BIGGGGG wait. Not cool. Fortunately we quickly worked out we had enough number 19s saved between us to jump in. I ran home, TT drove back to get his and Petter already had three. WINNER!

We moved quickly as the forecast said the weather was going to close in. The snow was seriously wind affected off the arête and all the way down to Rognon. After working out which aspect was going to be best we found some stunning turns, the best being in the same bowl from last time. There on down was a shit show of wind-crusted moguls. Hard work but fun. Montenvers train was hilarious and we were down pretty early, heading straight back to the Midi for a second lap before the weather broke.

TT and I's lines

Bullying the loner Ryan

In the queue we bumped into Petter's friend Annie who joined us. She'd skied the Rond that morning in great snow. Jealous... I should've suggested it. Damn. Ryan and I toyed with the idea of it but decided better due to the long exposed traverse out below the north face. In the few minutes it took to get down the arête and get ready a big wall of cloud had blown over from Italy. Get down. Fast. The whole way down we raced the cloud which made for some stunning views.

Damn good views and company

Robyn working it

TT enjoying the crusty snow

Breaking through the cloud

The snow had completely transformed. Off the arête was lovely corn this time, Rognon had firmed up enough that you could open up (although it still had a crust). The rest was spring moguls and an exceedingly slow, sticky exit.

Munster for apres and football then straight to TT + Robyn's for a BBQ in the rain. So much good food, company, laughter, more laughter and even more laughter. One of the best days of the season without a doubt!

BBQ in the rain

Billy goat with his stick

Petit Flambeau and Aiguille du Toule

Mon 14th: Ryan and Jim had decided on this route so I jumped on the bandwagon. We skied down some seriously windswept boilerplate and then skinned up to the Italian side. From here we switched to crampons and scrambled up the arête all the way to the top of the Petit Flambeau. A nice - not too technical - route with big holds, but exposed none the less.

First route: from the col lower centre to the peak top right

Jim and I skinning

Following Jim to the summit

We traversed and skied down to the bowl below the Aiguille du Toule as we were heading up its West face to the summit. I told the others to go on ahead as my binding had a block of sheet ice in it. Spent 10 minutes working it out with my pole ends. Eventually got moving and followed up as fast as I could. Met them at the bootpack of the West face (~40-45 degrees). Bootpacked up quickly, left our kit on a plateau then headed up to the summit.

Peak two on the left and our powder exit

Ryan approaching the peak

After kitting up we skied down the same face. It was pretty scoured but nice as there was no real exposure. From the base we found some beautiful powder for 500m+ transitioning into heavy wind/sun-crust. We then just followed the long traverse down the Italian side with the snow changing from bulletproof moguls to nice corn. The way out was easy and I was down with plenty of time for work.

Great morning!

Checking out the Argentiere basin

Fri 11th: Ryan arrived the other day so Tom Tom, Robyn, Jim and I got up early. The plan was to do the Tour Noir or col d'Argentiere. The ski down to the skin track had a vile, thick rain crust. This probably didn't help Robyn when she and TT headed back after her boot broke for the sixth time. Jim, Ryan and I decided that instead we'd have a look at Col de Cristaux (I'd been trying to persuade them to do this the night before).

End of the basin

Jim looking back on Col de Cristaux

Ryan with the Cristaux

We made our way up to the end of the basin and reached the bergschund of col de Cristaux. Unfortunately it was about 12 and the snow was already incredibly slushy. Jim was hesitant what with a slide already evident from a few days before. Jim has the most mountain experience of us all so Ryan and I weren't going to argue... We called it and headed down. Snow was good in places, crusty in others.

Jim on the way back to Grand Montets

Bit of an anti-climax but a great way to spend a morning.

Every snow condition under the sun

Weds 9th: Hadn't been skiing for a few weeks due to my knee. After five hours sleep I was up at ridiculous o'clock. Made the Midi by 7:30 to meet Steve, Tom Tom and Robyn. I was first in the queue... For the first time... Ever...

First... ohh yeah

Opening was delayed due to the previous nights snow but after worrying about tickets we got the first bin up and were up by 9:10 (people within the queue section were allowed on without tickets). We were in no rush. Even so there was <5 tracks in the entire of the main bowl below us. Awesome!

The main bowl... untouched

It was windy... Snow off the arête was scoured / thickkkkkk wind crust. The main bowl was scoured so much that it was like skating, although that meant no pushing whatsoever. More windcrust getting round to Rognon. Had a nice wipeout when my tip deflected... light skis in crusty snow are disconcerting.

Rognon itself was awesome. Hadn't been too wind affected. We had three long really good pitches getting the only tracks in view for most of it. After that it was a shit show. We got; 1. wind-crusted moguls, 2. slabby rain-affected moguls, 3. Scoured moguls/hard pack, 4. A tiny section of corn and 5. Ice to Montenvers.

Weird glacier loving

TomTom and Robyn looking up to the Dent du Geant 

It was hot... very hot

No one was bothered by another lap so after lunch Tom Tom, Robyn (left for work after a climb) and I headed off to Gaillands. Did a few nice routes up at Forestieres. Lead up the 6a overhang, took a few slips (but no falls) before I was up and over. Then TT top-roped me on the 6b+ to the right. Cracked it with the very last of my strength after a few attempts. Not easy but will work towards leading that in the next few weeks.

Awesome view

A great - and very knackering - day!

Climbing: Gaillands and Cosmiques

Tues 1st: Climbing down Gaillands. Tom Tom and Robyn bought down their BBQ as well as a ton of food. Everyone else brought beer and meat. Loads of people turned up (like 20+). Had a few climbs with Sunny, few with Tom Tom then climbed with Flynn for a while. Great food and an awesome afternoon. Slacklining, football. It had it all.

Slacklining

Pulling some weird move

Lo Lo, Flynn and Lee belaying

TT's arty photo

Roberta lead-climbing

Flynn leading

Sunny on the crack

Looking down

Big crowd

Liam and Charlie, TT climbing in the background

Weds 2nd: Had work until 11am. Rushed back and was up the top of the Midi by 12, ready to start Cosmiques arête with Flynn. The weather was moving in and we didn't want to miss the last bin so we decided to blitz it.

Two and a half hours later we were back in the station. We didn't even move that fast once we realised how ahead of schedule we were. Its a fun, not too difficult route, with a lot of exposure. First time I've climbed in Crampons. Flynn and I simul-climbed most of it with him leading and putting in some protection every so often as I haven't trad climbed before. Used a separate 40m rope for the two abseils which was the perfect length and saved time. Hand belayed the only technical pitch. The last scramble was fun although it's pretty tight for someone my height with a big pack.

Walking to the Simond hut

Midi in the background

First abseil

Flynn following up the technical pitch

Don't fall / look down

Top of the arête

Thurs 3rd: Went down Gaillands with Flynn and Jesse for a few hours so Flynn could teach us the basics of trad climbing. Only did one easy route but just worked through the various means of protection and anchor building. Flynn and I fully weighting a trad anchor for the first time was interesting...

NB. Most of the photos from Gaillands were taken by Charlie / Tom Tom