All hell breaks loose in the Cosmiques couloir

Tues 29th: Apologies in advance for a huge wall of text... Probably the most eventful 24h I've had in Chamonix.

On the evening of the 28th I went down for a quick drink to see Sonny and Luke for their last night in Chamonix, knowing that I had to be up early for potentially the deepest day of the season. I had also missed two powder days in a row... there was no way I was missing this. A quiet drink turned into getting pretty smashed as we pounded more and more G+Ts, beers, shots etc. At 3:30am I ended up back in bed having; broken up a fight, added a few vodka-cokes to the tally and spent 2h in the hot tub. Pretty epic night. 

Needless to say at 7am the next day I didn't feel so epic... Regardless I met Steve, TomTom, Robyn and their friend Romain at the Midi at 7:45. Eventually the CDMB called a 9:30 first bin and opened the queue. Our goal had originally been the Cosmiques couloir but during the previous night I'd psyched myself out due to fearing the un-skied metre+ of fresh snow in three days would be a deathtrap. As a result TT hadn't bought his 60m rope (Steve still had his). I decided to walk to TT's whilst we waited and to pick up the rope, just in case... A lovely woman drove me back to the Midi on her way to work. We made the first bin anyway - score.

At the top Steve and I split off from the others (who had time issues) and decided to go take a peek and just see what happened. We got to the couloir with a few people ahead of us. As I was prepping the rope and Steve was scoping our entry a guy slipped on the ice above the first rappel and bounced 'like a rag doll' down the slope, straight over two rock bands and out of sight. Various calls were made; the PGHM were alerted and contact was made via his mobile; he was conscious at least. The two groups that were already entering/in the couloir continued on down.

The guy fell from the couloir above the dog leg left of
centre and was evacuated from below the rock bottom right

Steve was visibly shaken having actually seen the incident and so we took a timeout to assess our options. The noise of the helicopter was heard, making two passes, then silence. Whilst we were waiting thick cloud blew over from Italy obscuring the alternative descent down Rognon. Of the two options I'd rather take the one with the visibility. The exit over seracs du geant had been sketchy enough a few days before, even with visibility. Steve agreed so we got ready... We chose the right hand entry. Three people had already side slipped in and down to the first rap point. Taking into account what we'd just seen we rapped down to them, just to be safe. As I was half way down they started to climb back up. They'd seen the incident and changed their minds.

After faffing around letting them climb past etc Steve and I started prepping the main rappel. I headed off first with skis on, descended 50m, having to unknot the rope twice, and found a nice protected stance. Steve followed down and the guy above kindly untied our ropes. The first 20m was steep and bulletproof, like the first Rond... I just sideslipped down with edges in and legs wide and was fine. Steve followed with his ice axe.

Eventually we got started and found that most of the couloir had slid the day before and that it was impossible to tell what was bulletproof and what was deep powder. Regardless, the conditions were good enough to open up and link turns, just had to be constantly ready for the bulletproof. From time to time we found some stunning snow, mainly in runnels between the slides.

Steve with his comically oversized bag

Finally some good snow

After 400m vert or so I saw two guys in high vis vests waving at me. I made my way to the edge to get out of the way and watched the two PGHM paramedics get evacuated by the helicopter hanging wire in two passes. Pretty amazing to see. It was a surprise to see them as we'd already waited for the helicopter to come and go twice before starting our first rappel. We carried on down quickly just wanting to get out. We'd already spent far too long in the couloir and it was getting MUCH hotter. Near the bottom a large sluff came down off the south facing side. We got out as soon as possible over the big bergschrund and onto Bossons glacier.

PGHM being airlifted out

Big sluff coming down from the South side

At least the views were epic

The snow on Bossons was the best of the day, exactly what we'd been hoping for in the couloir. The traverse back was seriously hard work. The combination of hangover, dehydration, lack of food and sleep and heat left me weak. If I'm honest it's up there as the most exhausted I've felt on skis. There was a pretty technical scramble mid way. I actually slipped whilst trying to balance my 10kg of skis in front of me but stopped myself. Lucky as there was a pretty big cliff band 20m below.

Best five turns of the day

Breathtaking traverse... still sketchy as hell

Steve had been trying to talk me into skiing the para face and I really wasn't interested. However my will power was at an all time low and so eventually I reluctantly agreed. The snow got heavy quickly, as I'd predicted. Lower down I basically collapsed and we took a break. I stripped right down, had some water and instantly felt WAY better. If I'd just done it earlier...

We combat skied to the old lift station. Skis went on the backpack and jackets came off and we hiked down to town. It took us a good two hours for the 600m vert descent but I was actually feeling much better. Still, I got home knackered and had a well deserved night in.

Steve looking... well... special

Grumpy being made to walk down

Was it an epic day? Did it seem worth it at the time? Would I do it again? Hell yes, hell no and happily. What have I learnt? Mainly that I'm a pragmatist. Of course I wish that the guy hadn't fallen and I really hope he's OK. However I already knew full well that that, or far worse, is a possible outcome for some of the activities we choose to do. Does it mean I'll stop doing the things I love because there's that tiny chance? Not a chance...

Do it in a dress

Sat 26th: Tom Tom, Robyn and I headed up for a few casual runs with the rock skis on. Did a lap of Bochard, my first in over four months. TT's uncle Martial joined us and we headed up top bin for a few laps. Lots of spring snow. Slushy moguls as far as the eye could see. Noticed the DIIAD lot all 'dressed' up, pun intended and decided we'd join them later.

Had a nice drink at mid station then headed back. I chilled out until 9pm, went and caught a bit of Dan's set then checked out Terrasse. There was no one there so I thought screw it, early night. At midnight Charlie came in and said everyone was out and I should come join. Threw a dress on, pounded a few beers and headed to Terrasse. Had an incredible night and was out until the sunrise in the hot tub. Also sold wax strips on my leg to people for charity. One of them fetched 20euros. Epic night!

Col D'Argentiere + BBQ

Thurs 24th: First lifts with Tom Tom and Robyn up GM. In the car park I realised I'd forgotten my transceiver, for the first - and hopefully last - time ever. Discussed it with the others, the avvy risk was low, we were moving in safe(as it can be) terrain, the main danger being seracs not slides. Decided that I'd go back down if there was more snow than forecasted.

After the standard Rich + Robyn cable car comedy we got up to 15+cm of blower snow on top. Crazy soft. Decided to go for it with TT and Robyn keeping a close eye on me. Took the high traverse which was particularly stunning with the fresh layer of snow. It's always a little intimidating traversing under seracs the size of houses but man is that route scenic. The snow down to the basin was nothing too special but still fun to ski the untracked.

A photo can't capture the sheer size of these monsters

TT and I got the skins on and our skin out. It's the hottest I've ever felt it on the glacier as there was no wind whatsoever. With no top on it was perfect temperature until about 2/3rds of the way up where the wind started so the base layers came out. With a steady pace and only a few small stops we made it up in pretty good time. It was definitely the most scenic tour I've done; the views are just incredible. Even though its right next to the Col du Tour Noir it absolutely annihilates it for scenery. TT + Robyn said exactly the same.

Don't look over the edge...

TT and Robyn in front of les Courtes and l'Aiguille Verte

After a few photos we made our way down via the various aspects we'd scouted on the way up. 3-4 stunning turns of soft powder, 300m vert of HEAVY crust, then perfect spring corn all the way to the glacier. Fresh turns to be found everywhere. I chose a nice line through all the rocks to the bottom with no tracks anywhere near. A slow, sludgy exit and we were down.

The views kept coming

Another backdrop of les Courtes

The army touring up a lower col

Freshies down to the basin

Straight back home to change for Dan and Berty's BBQ. They put on an awesome spread. Delicious food, lots of good company and LOTS of drinking. A few games of Flipcup, Beer Pong and Touchcup got everyone well on their way. Then down to Monkey for free beers. Another in a long line of great days.

Winners!

Flip cup

Decent turnout!

Fantastic hosts!

First tracks on the Rond

Tues 22nd: Ryan, Petter, Jim and I were at the Midi for 7:45. No reservations today... Hmmm. Three bins worth of people were there waiting, ready for the scrum. Ryan, Petter and I waited by the entrance to see what happened. Eventually a woman came over and opened the queue. After ten tense seconds of pushing and shoving Ryan, Petter and I made it into the queue, right at the front. Jim had decided to skip the queue and join some others later.

Ryan and Petter getting ready by the Cosmiques arête

We got up and out quickly despite Petter leaving his poles at the top of the arête... the fool. Followed in a few tracks to the Simond hut to see a few people scoping out the Cosmiques couloir. No one had gone into the Rond. A snowboarder, Flo, was waiting for us to put a track in. I was ready so headed in first, a bit nervous. There was a layer of champagne powder on top of the previous layer. I traversed across to the left shoulder on a dusting of snow on top of glacier ice. Sluff poured off way down the face. It was only slightly more forgiving than last time.

The entrance to the Rond - untouched

After a tense turn the snow got better and I was away. Long, linked turns the entire way down with sluff everywhere. I chose to ski straight down the centre of the glacier, forgoing the deepest snow on the right in favour of the direct line. Instead I just looked for the runnels of snow and it was fantastic. Soft, deep and steep. A complete contrast to the last time we skied it. Petter came down the left and Ryan in the deep snow on the right.

Happy days

Ryan with the Cunninghams couloir backdrop

After a quick rappel we were into the exit couloir. Flo had jumped past us through a narrow, rocky gully that was far too narrow to sideslip on skis. The fantastic snow continued until the last 100m where there was the remnants of a slide. Even then it was good. After jumping the bergschrund we were down and began the long traverse out.

Ryan, Petter and the Midi lined up

Petter enjoying the powder 

Freshies all the way down

Opening the turns up in the exit couloir

Making our way down to Bossons glacier

It was slow and hard work. As the heaviest I was breaking through every step and there were times on the bootpack I was up to my waist in heavy snow. Eventually after a few scrambles, some incredible scenery and some crusty snow we were back at the mid-station where we bumped into Flo again. After a quick rest Ryan and Petter headed off for a second lap but tired, I headed down.

The traverse back to mid-station

Jaw dropping views

The north face up close

In the evening Liam, Nick, Sonny and Gibbs came round for some cards and a lot of beer and wine. After a few hours we headed out for a fun evening at Terrasse; the last Tequila Tuesday of the season. Another fantastic day.

Col du Tour Noir

Weds 16th: We called off our plan to go for Mont Blanc the night before. A few of us were unsure we were 100% ready. Personally I was worried about either the 1200/1800m vertical tour at altitude having not done anything of that length before. Instead Tom Tom, Robyn and I did the Col du Tour Noir. For me it was a nice way to just get some more training in. It's only 750m vertical but its all training. When we got up the top of the Grand Montets the wind was relentless. Stronger than when we did the Midi in high winds earlier in the season. Must have been well over 150km/h (though that was on the Col).

Tommo on the thick layer of crust

Argentiere basin stunning as always

As soon as we were in the basin the wind relented. The ski down and transition was good. The wind came in gusts over the bottom of the glacier and it we saw a few people get knocked over by it. On the way up I powered off as I knew it'd take me longer; it was icy and unlike the others I had no couteau (ski crampons). The first steep skin was a balancing act attempting not to slip back down. It was the same for two of the steep sections later.

Far left of picture - our route up

TT and Robyn getting ready to skin

The rest of the skin was pretty nice until were 100m vertical from the top. The wind suddenly came in stronger than I've ever experienced before. EVER. It funnelled down over the col and was enough to knock anyone who wasn't bracing straight over (and a lot of people came cropper anyway). TT and Robyn had already seen over the Col so whilst they headed for cover I headed up the last section, fighting the wind. As I reached the top the wind died completely. Perfect. Few photos and we headed back down.

Me on the Col

Looking over the Col

Perfect views of Switzerland

The way back down was heavy crust for the first 500m vertical then corn the rest of the way. We skipped the Pierre a Ric as the coverage in places is non existent. Really happy with the day. I powered up (whilst fighting against the lack of crampons) and felt like I had a lot more left. Looking forward to some longer tours and hopefully the big MB.

Midi, powder, views, beer and BBQs. Epic.

Sun 20th: We knew it snowed overnight but that there wasn't too much fresh. Even so Ryan, Petter, Tom Tom, Robyn and I got up early doors for the Midi. We hadn't bargained on Easter Sunday... They were already handing out bin 33 (started ~15). BIGGGGG wait. Not cool. Fortunately we quickly worked out we had enough number 19s saved between us to jump in. I ran home, TT drove back to get his and Petter already had three. WINNER!

We moved quickly as the forecast said the weather was going to close in. The snow was seriously wind affected off the arête and all the way down to Rognon. After working out which aspect was going to be best we found some stunning turns, the best being in the same bowl from last time. There on down was a shit show of wind-crusted moguls. Hard work but fun. Montenvers train was hilarious and we were down pretty early, heading straight back to the Midi for a second lap before the weather broke.

TT and I's lines

Bullying the loner Ryan

In the queue we bumped into Petter's friend Annie who joined us. She'd skied the Rond that morning in great snow. Jealous... I should've suggested it. Damn. Ryan and I toyed with the idea of it but decided better due to the long exposed traverse out below the north face. In the few minutes it took to get down the arête and get ready a big wall of cloud had blown over from Italy. Get down. Fast. The whole way down we raced the cloud which made for some stunning views.

Damn good views and company

Robyn working it

TT enjoying the crusty snow

Breaking through the cloud

The snow had completely transformed. Off the arête was lovely corn this time, Rognon had firmed up enough that you could open up (although it still had a crust). The rest was spring moguls and an exceedingly slow, sticky exit.

Munster for apres and football then straight to TT + Robyn's for a BBQ in the rain. So much good food, company, laughter, more laughter and even more laughter. One of the best days of the season without a doubt!

BBQ in the rain

Billy goat with his stick