Alex had rounded up a group and invited me to join. I hadn't done the Cosmiques this year so was game even though I wasn't convinced it'd be in good condition. I joined Alex, Angus, Gabe and Adam at the Midi for a 10:30 lift hoping that the couloir would have softened in the strong morning sun. Angus, Alex and I set off quickly to scope the route and set up the rappel as we knew it'd take a while with a large group. We agreed that Alex and I would rappel last, sort the ropes and then catch up with the others.
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| Group discussion at the entrance |
I set up the rappel and Angus lowed himself in. Adam followed but asked to be lowered another five metres below another rock step so I belayed him down further on the 70m rope. Gabe followed and just rappelled off the 70m running through the anchor and secured to me. Alex followed and I let myself down last. I can see why the others asked to be lowered, it was very hard and I was a little nervy getting safe. The other three had already set up a further 15m rappel on a very hard packed section and continued down.
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| Gabe rappelling in |
As I was pulling the ropes through I suddenly had a jolt of panic - I hadn't undone the knot. I was not up for leaving two ropes, neither of which were mine, stuck in the couloir. Alex calmed me down and talked me out of climbing up in crampons to retrieve them. When calm I thought it through logically and realised I had undone the knot that mattered, I'd just confused myself. What a bloody fool. Alex and I sorted the ropes. When coiling my rope I managed to hook it round the powder basket of a pole sheltered by my ski and sent it flying down the couloir. I have never regretted cutting off the straps in the last two months until that moment. Clipping them on to a harness is damn handy and I will be putting them back on... It is amazing how reliant we are on poles for balance / turn initiation on steeps.
With the ropes stowed I got my ice axe out as a counterweight. Alex started down and I followed. Turning on the steeper, very hard packed, top section with only one pole really scared me. The only other time I've been that nervous to put a turn it was at the top of the Rond in very poor conditions. After the first turn I had my confidence. Each turn I swapped my pole and axe. As we descended the snow got more grippy leading to nice linked turns without swapping hands. Half way down the couloir I spotted my pole. Wicked! With a second pole in my hands the rest was a joke. We even found a tiny dusting of chalk making for fun even turns. I also found Angus' glove which he had misplaced when setting up the second rappel. Dropping something down the couloir... how embarrassing...
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| Alex, Gabe and Adam skiing down |
The exit wasn't good. After boot-packing up too far and u-turning we made it onto the Para face and continued down in wind affected snow. The coverage to mid station was great but below immediately became dire. Alex and I walked down in trainers (big mistake - the path was horrendous) and we all met at the tunnel.
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| Combat skiing |
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| Getting pretty thin |
A few minutes wait and Adam and Angus hitched down. Adam drove back and picked us up. A quick drink at Gaillands to end a good day! I learnt a valuable lesson in checking and double checking ropes and not to drop stuff. Obvious but easily done.
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